Nihari (Spiced Oxtail Stew)

Recipe Origin: Traditional Indian Muslim culinary dish, adapted by Julia Moskin from Anita Jaisinghani’s recipe in Masala: Recipes From India, the Land of Spices (Ten Speed Press, 2022).

Publication Date: March 1, 2023

Total Time: ~6 hours (plus cooling and chilling)

Difficulty: Moderate (requires long, slow braising)

Servings: 6–8

Introduction

Nihari is a revered spiced stew rooted in Indian Muslim culinary heritage, traditionally simmered overnight to develop its rich, complex flavors. This adaptation by Anita Jaisinghani replaces the traditional beef with oxtail, leveraging its tender meat and marrow-rich bones for an even more indulgent dish. The recipe, featured in Masala, emphasizes slow braising with toasted chickpea flour (besan) thickened in ghee, creating a velvety texture and depth that improves with daily "stew starters"—a practice akin to sourdough culture, preserving flavor over decades. Traditionally served as a hearty breakfast, often with a dollop of yogurt or fresh cilantro.

Ingredients (Serves 6–8)

• 1.5 kg (3.3 lbs) oxtail, cut into 5–6 cm (2–2.5 inch) pieces

• 200 g (1 cup) ghee (clarified butter, plus extra for roasting)

• 150 g (1 cup) chickpea flour (besan)

• 2 large onions, finely diced

• 4–5 garlic cloves, minced

• 2 tablespoons fresh ginger, grated

• 2 whole black cardamom pods

• 2 green cardamom pods

• 4–5 cloves

• 1 cinnamon stick (3-inch)

• 1 star anise (optional)

• 1 bay leaf

• 1 teaspoon garam masala

• 1 teaspoon red chili powder (adjust to taste, optional)

• 2–3 ripe tomatoes, chopped (or 400 g/14 oz canned crushed tomatoes)

• 2.5–3 liters (10–12 cups) beef stock (homemade preferred)

• 1 teaspoon salt (adjust to taste)

• Freshly ground black pepper

• Bone marrow pieces (optional, for serving; from oxtail bones or beef shanks)

Equipment

• Heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or large braising pot

• Large skillet (for roasting oxtail)

• Chef’s knife and cutting board

• Measuring cups/spoons

• Wooden spoon (heat-resistant)

• Colander (for skimming fat post-cooking)

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Roast the Oxtail

Preheat oven to 200°C (400°F). Season oxtail generously with salt and pepper. Heat 3–4 tablespoons ghee in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches if needed, sear oxtail on all sides until deeply caramelized (2–3 minutes per side). Transfer seared oxtail to the Dutch oven.

2. Toast Chickpea Flour & Build the Base

In the same skillet, add 2–3 tablespoons ghee. Reduce heat to medium, then add besan. Toast for 2–3 minutes, stirring constantly, until golden and fragrant (it will darken slightly). Immediately transfer toasted besan to the Dutch oven with the oxtail.

3. Sauté Aromatics & Spices

In the skillet, add onions. Sauté until translucent and golden (5–7 minutes). Add garlic and ginger; cook 1 minute until fragrant. Add whole spices (cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, star anise, bay leaf); toast 30 seconds to release aroma. Stir in tomatoes and cook until soft (3–4 minutes).

4. Braise the Stew

Transfer the spiced onion-tomato mixture to the Dutch oven. Pour in beef stock, stir to combine, and add garam masala, chili powder (if using), salt, and pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to low. Cover and braise for 5–6 hours (or 8–10 hours in a slow cooker on low). The stew should be thick, rich, and the meat should pull easily from the bone.

5. Cool & Chill for Flavor

After cooking, remove from heat and let cool to room temperature (1–2 hours). Refrigerate for 4–6 hours (or overnight) to allow fat to rise to the surface and solidify. Skim excess fat before reheating.

6. Reheat & Serve

Reheat the stew over low heat, stirring occasionally. If using marrow, add bone marrow pieces during the final 30 minutes of reheating. Serve hot with warm naan, rice, or crusty bread, garnished with fresh cilantro or a dollop of yogurt.

Cooking Notes

• Flavor Evolution: For decades-old depth, save 1/4 cup of stew daily (after cooling) and add to the next batch. This "stew starter" preserves and amplifies the dish’s complexity, much like sourdough.

• Marrow Serving: Traditional nihari is often served with marrow-rich bones; the marrow melts into the stew during long braising, adding luxurious richness.

• Thickening: If the stew is too thin post-chilling, reheat and stir in 1–2 tablespoons besan mixed with 3 tablespoons cold water (slurry) to thicken.

Recipe adapted from Anita Jaisinghani’s Masala: Recipes From India, the Land of Spices (Ten Speed Press, 2022).

Total Time: ~6 hours (plus cooling/chilling)

Rating: 4/66 (based on reader feedback)

Comments: 16 comments (read more here: [link to original article])