Recipe Details
Chez Ma Tante’s Crispy Pancakes: A Brooklyn Brunch Icon
At Brooklyn’s Chez Ma Tante, the brunch menu is defined by bold, unapologetic indulgence—and few dishes embody this spirit more than its legendary pancakes. Served two to an order, these golden disks are as large as dessert plates, with a “almost burnt” exterior that signals extraordinary crispiness, a hallmark of Chef de Cuisine Jake Leiber’s culinary vision.
The Culinary Roots: A Historic Cookbook & Bacon Fat Legacy
Leiber draws inspiration from How America Eats, a 1940s classic by food historian Clementine Paddleford, which champions rustic, no-frills cooking. The original recipe from Paddleford’s tome featured pancakes made with bacon fat, prized for its deep, savory richness and high smoke point. Leiber, however, reimagined this foundation, blending tradition with precision to elevate the dish’s texture and flavor.
Key Innovations by Jake Leiber
To transform the classic into a modern masterpiece, Leiber introduced several intentional tweaks:
Fat Redux: Swapped bacon fat for unsalted butter, balancing savory depth with a silken, sweet undertone.
Egg Yolk Enrichment: Added an extra egg yolk to the batter, enhancing emulsification and reinforcing structure for crispy edges.
Vintage Cast-Iron Technique: Heated a well-seasoned vintage cast-iron skillet to searing temperatures, ensuring the fat crisps the batter without burning.
Clarified Butter Frying: Melted and clarified butter (removing milk solids) provided a clean, nutty flavor and a higher smoke point, critical for the “fritter-like” crisp.
Recipe: Crafting the Crispy Perfection
Ingredients (Yields 2 pancakes, 2 per order)
Batter:
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
1 large egg
1 extra egg yolk (for richness)
1 cup whole milk (or buttermilk, for tang)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter (3 for batter, 3 for frying)
Frying Fat:
½ cup clarified butter (strained, for shallow frying)
Serving:
Unsalted butter, melted (for drizzling)
Grade A maple syrup (generous glugs)
Step-by-Step Preparation
- Clarified Butter Prep:
Melt ½ cup unsalted butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Simmer for 5–7 minutes until milk solids sink to the bottom and the fat appears clear. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a heatproof bowl; set aside to cool (this ensures a clean, high-smoke-point fat for frying).
- Dry Ingredients Mix:
In a medium bowl, whisk flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt until evenly incorporated.
- Wet Ingredients Whisk:
In a separate bowl, lightly beat the egg and extra yolk until smooth. Gradually add milk, whisking to combine.
- Batter Combining:
Pour wet ingredients into dry ingredients. Gently fold with a rubber spatula until just mixed (small lumps are acceptable to avoid toughness). Rest batter for 5 minutes to activate baking powder.
- Skillet Heating:
Preheat a vintage cast-iron skillet over high heat for 7–10 minutes until extremely hot (the fat should shimmer). Add 2–3 tablespoons clarified butter, swirling to coat the pan evenly.
- Pancake Cooking:
Use a ¼-cup ladle to pour batter into the skillet, forming a 6–7 inch circle. Cook undisturbed for 2–3 minutes until edges are deeply browned and crisp. For texture, flip gently and cook the second side 1–2 minutes (or skip flipping for maximum crisp).
- Serving:
Transfer hot pancakes to a plate. Top with melted butter and generous maple syrup.
Final Note
Leiber’s pancakes honor Paddleford’s rustic roots while delivering a contemporary, crispy twist. These are not just breakfast—they’re a dessert-worthy indulgence, balancing sweetness, richness, and textural contrast. For a brunch experience that lingers, Chez Ma Tante’s crispy pancakes are a must.
Total Time: 20 minutes | Rating: 4.9 (4,940 reviews)
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Source: Adapted from Jake Leiber’s recipe at Chez Ma Tante, Brooklyn.